Somewhere under the snow lies a lawn, which will turn green again in the spring, whenever that may arrive. Looking ahead to the happy event, it’s time to check lawn care practices. I just learned (and re-learned) a few things that others may find helpful.

• Dormancy is natural.  Our turf grasses in northern Illinois are “cool season” grasses. This type grows during the cooler months — spring and early summer and then again in fall. It is normal for this form of grass to go dormant in the heat of mid-summer, and watering it to keep it green can actually harm this type of grass. This form of grasses can be weakened by on again-off again watering during its “off” (dormant) season. Bottom line: do not water your turf during its natural dormancy period (unless there is a very severe drought, and then you should water, but only enough to keep the crown alive —about ¼ inch of water).
   
• Mow at 2-3 inches.  So that grass plants can produce enough food via their green “leaves,” do not mow less than 2 inches high. A longer lawn better shades its roots to conserve water and roots are hardier since they have access to more food generated by the green leaves. Also, never remove more than 1/3 of the plant height during any one mowing, or the lawn will be stressed. (If the lawn gets very tall, split the mowing into 2 sessions a few days apart. The first one takes off the top inch or so, and the subsequent mowing takes off the rest.)
  
  
• Leave clippings. Many people think that clippings promote thatch. Not true. Clippings are about 80% water, so will reduce to almost nothing. Thatch is made up thicker materials like stems and roots, not clippings.
  
  
• Test soil. To make sure that your lawn soil is optimal, you can have a lab test it. To do that, wait until the soil is above 50°; take your sample 2-4 inches down (not at the surface); and take several samples around the yard, mixing them together to submit about 1 cup of soil for the test. (The U of I Extension can refer you to labs in this area.)
  
  
• Treating salt damage. Most gardeners routinely spread gypsum to counteract road salt. However, gypsum only works if the “salt” is sodium chloride. Since Lincolnshire uses a mixture of calcium chloride, beet juice, and sodium chloride (the mixture depends on circumstances), applying gypsum is appropriate in our village.
  
  
• Lawn problems can be diagnosed by “indicator weeds.” Prostrate spurge and knotweed grow in compacted soils, while creeping Charlie, violets, and nimbleweed grow in shady areas with poor drainage. Soils with poor fertility seem to generate white clover, and plantain.
  
  
• Use herbicides for the weed stage.  Pre-emergence herbicides form a barrier and kill weeds as they come out of the seed. Because of that, if you use such a weed-killer, do not dig or cultivate after it is applied or you will break the “barrier” and allow weeds to come through. The best timing is late April/early May when the soil is about 55°. The other kind of herbicide is post-emergence – these kill broadleaf weeds when they are actively growing. Always read and follow label instructions exactly (technically, herbicide labels are a federal legal document!).
  
  
• Fertilizing. There are two optimal times to fertilize a lawn, if fertilizing is needed. While it is not necessary to fertilize (esp. if leaving clippings to decompose and provide nutrients to the turf), some gardeners prefer to do so. The optimal time? Fall when the grass is no longer growing (you no longer need to mow) and the air is cool (about 45-50°). Late season fertilization feeds the roots, leading to early spring greening with flush growth.  Another good time to fertilize turf is early spring. (Just remember, do not buy fertilizers with phosphorus—make sure the middle number on the bag is 0.)